Jessie, the dress with a secret

I tested this pattern a while back, and really had fun with it.

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A tank with a cardigan is my favorite trans season combo!

A cute top, tee, tank or dress with a party in the back. The ITY print I used wanted a narrow ruffled hem.

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I seamed the back due to fabric limitations.

Jessie is a great basic.  I added a shelf bra, which makes it a grab and go option, which fits my life.  After testing Virginia, Stella, and a few other favorites, it was super easy to add.  It is genius with the low back! I learned by happy accident that a shelf bra in a 4 way stretch that wicks is a beautiful thing.  Add powernet or tech sheen if you want more support/coverage!

Check out the tester photos and see how creative some folks got with theirs.

I love the scoop back, in its simplicity,  and I also love the fancy straps.  What is a sewist to do?  Both?  Yes please!

I made the loops like we did with the Key West.  About 9 inches of the 1.5 inch strip was serged lengthwise and cut into 2 inch strips.  I love a solid binding on a print garment.  It punctuates the edges and this Nylon Spandex Tricot from my stash was the perfect color.

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After sewing shoulder and side seams in both dress and bra, per pattern instructions, I basted the edges together with a short zig zag stitch.  Then I carefully measured so that my loops were symmetrical, and basted them to the inside of the back before binding the edge. Raw edges of the loops aligned with the raw edges of the fabric.

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loops pinned

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loop basted

Then, I attached the right side of the binding cut at the pattern chart length and stitched together to form a loop, to wrong side of the dress with a 2 wide and 2 long zig zag on the edge.  Checked for fit and puckers, then serged around that seam.  When I did this, I noticed that the armscye wanted to be a little narrower, so I basted those openings  about 1/2 inch from the edge, and trimmed them before binding.

The serged edge lends nice stability.  I wrapped the binding around it, tucked in the raw edge of the binding, and top stitched.  The beauty of sewing the binding to the back and wrapping it around is that both sides are finished and the top stitching happens from the side that will be seen when wearing.

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I like to use a thread that matches my fabric.

 

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Sewing the band on a tank for my sweetie.  Same process, different color. The fabric here was reversible, so I wanted the tank to be reversible too.  More on that here.

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The loops stay tucked out of sight when not used, and can be pulled out and  laced up when that look is desired.

I used the 1.5 inch strip leftover from binding to make the lace.  Perhaps the next version will get three loops on either side?

Love a dress with options and pockets!

Now to make some Ninjas from that Nylon Spandex Tricot!

This post contains affiliate links, which cost you nothing to use and incent me to share more of my sewing secrets. I may receive a small commission from the designers from your usage of the link.

Happy sewing!  Joan

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