Reversible Reticule

Reversible Reticule by Joan.in.stitches@gmail.com

This project started with a largish garlic harvest. In the theme of “If you Give a Mouse a Cookie” it wandered from the need for garlic print fabric to store the garlic heads in to writing a post. Garlic heads like cool dark places, and to breathe. Gift bags to present the garlic in would likely be reused. That is the point of a reusable gift bag, right? Thinking that my dearest friends may not want to walk around with a garlic print reticule, I decided to make them not just lined, but reversible. Kudos to my LQS for having coordinates to the two garlic prints I ordered from Etsy. Choices. Thanks to Nob Hill Fabrics for the six lovely prints used in the photos.

Materials: 2 Fat Quarters Quilting Fabric, 8 feet drawstring, coordinating thread, glue stick and safety pin or bodkin, ruler.

  •  Cut two coordinating rectangles of quilting or other similar fabrics.  Here, I used 9” x 21”. Non directional prints work best. 
  • Sew the short edges with a 1/2-inch seam allowance with the right sides together.  Leave a 3-inch opening in the center of one edge for turning the bag later. (Step 2 is leaving the opening)
  • Open the two pieces, so that the seams you just made are facing each other, right sides together.  Nest and pin those seams, so that one seam allowance faces left, and the other right. Pin both sides.
  • Mark your fabric as follows:  With the center of the seams on the 2-inch line of a ruler, mark at 0, 1, 3 and 4 inches.  This will create the opening for the casing. Mark each side.

  • Sew a seam that starts at the fold of fabric “A” and goes to the 0-inch marking.  Back tack there.  Skip the inch between the markings 0 and 1.  Start a seam securely by sewing in place 3-4 stitches at the 1 spot and sew over the center seam to the 3 spot.  Remove pins just before the needle hits them.  Skip the area between 3 and 4.  Start a secured seam at 4 and stitch until you get to the end fold of fabric “B”.   Be sure that your stitching is secured at either end, and that the spaces between marks 0-1 and 3-4 are clearly open.  I generally do not cut the threads in those spots.  Use a ½ inch seam allowance here.
  • Box the corners if you choose.  My favorite method is to draw a 1.5-inch square at the bottom corners.  The fold line will be at one side of the square, and the seam line at the other.  Draw the box at the other two sides of the 1.5-inch square. Open the corner, so the box lines are aligned the seam allowance is pressed open, and stitch across the bottom.   Alternatively, you can “squash fold” each corner, and draw a line that forms the triangle needed to form the “box”.  Repeat for all four corners.  This step gives a 3D form to the bag and is completely optional.
  • Glue the seam allowances. To keep the seam allowances at the casing opening flat and open, you may use fabric glue (glue stick) to secure them.  Run a line of glue stick in the seam allowance where you made the marks for the casing.  Press back one edge at a time after applying the glue.  Wash Away Wonder Tape would work well here.  Repeat this on all four sides. Hand basting could also be done here.
  • Finger Press The remaining seam allowances open, from the area where you glued to the bottom boxed area.
  • Turn your bag right sides out through the opening you made in step 2.  Slip the “lining side” into the outer, push out the boxed bottoms.
  • Pin the top folded edge all the way around, paying particular attention to the casing openings.  I like to pin each side of these so that the openings line up as close as possible.  Pin the opening that you made in step 2 so that the folded edges line up. 
  • Top stitch the edge.  Use a foot with a seam guide and sew round the very top edge of your bag.  This will seal the opening made in step 2.  Remove pins as you go.
  • Create your casings.  Mark the 1- and 2-inch lines parallel to the top fold or use a seam guide to stitch the two lines that will create your casings. 
  • Slide the cording or drawstring through the bag casings.  I like to cut my drawstrings 3 times the width of the bag.  This bag finishes at 8” wide, so a 24-inch drawstring will go through the bag and leave enough leftover to tie.  Two ties that exit either side will make it easy to pull both sides of the ties to close your bag. 

Have fun with these!  Two bags can be made with two fat quarters, and 8 feet of drawstring.  Try different sizes, keep proportion in mind, with the long edges of your rectangle being more than twice the length of your short end.  Use scraps, or fancy fabrics, embellish, embroider, add trim, tassels, or an edging.  Use your decorative stitches.  Change up the casing sizes with your meter stick and use centimeters instead of inches.

Another efficient use of quilting fabrics would be to use 14 inch wide by 36-inch-long rectangles.  Two one-yard cuts of coordinating fabrics would net you 3 bags that are 13 x 17 finished before boxing corners.  You would need 20 feet of cording for your drawstrings for all three bags.

Happy Sewing!  Joan 8/30/23

The many faces of Escapade

After I retired from the corporate world, I had a lot of fun testing sewing patterns. One that really caught my attention is the Escapade from 5 out of 4 patterns. It is simple, and very cleverly designed. Sews up quickly and is pretty fabric conservative. Swim top, casual bra (or both) nightgown, dress (or both) or cami/tank top, love the versatility that this pattern offers. You can have fun with the straps too. What follows are a lot of photos of me in the variations of escapade. You’ve been warned!

5 out of 4 Patterns Escapade info

The first one I made in testing was from a thrifted jersey sheet and a bit of polka dot cotton lycra I had in my stash. This is a very casual fit photo of that one. I wear it as a night gown. Turns out the Flamingo print is from a sought after print designer. I often water the garden first thing in the summer. Hope that the neighbors assume this is a cute summer dress.

In keeping with the night gown theme, I used Tricot to make this blue one, with a slightly fuller skirt. Just added a few inches to the front and back of the skirt and pleated center front and either side of the back.

Nylon Tricot Escapade with additional width added to “skirt” to form pleats. I need more colors of this style!

With a little more length in a light weight cotton lycra and contrast ties, a fun summer dress. There is a light purple athletic knit dress version somewhere in the closet.

Nick of Time Fabrics has a 92/8 Cotton Lycra that made a great layering/set with the Ultimate Bikini Bottoms. I like the upward curve of the bikini bottoms for extra tummy coverage. I modified the top to have just elastic shirring, without ties, and fixed straps. I bought a few colors to make this with, and could only find this photo. There is a hot pink version that saw a lot of wear with Annabeth over when the weather was cooler.

This is a simple version with elastic shirring made from supplex perfect under summer whites.

Inspired by the Ultimate Bikini Bottoms that are reversible, I wrote about making this Nylon Spandex Tricot Version reversible too.

I stitched up some matching tricot Lola shorts to wear as a coverup to the pool.

And a Nylon Spandex Tricot version for more summer white tops.

The swim version made in testing from purple black and red swim scraps.

With a reversible top.

The Cotton Lycra Tardis version with Rad Panel Undies for fun.

And most recently, an athletic space dyed knit to go with Candy Shorts. As a mothers day gift for my daughter. Cause hanging out at the pool in an escapade and Candy Shorts will be the thing to do once school is out.

I sure have had fun making and wearing my Escapades since testing. You should try one too! The links in this post are my affiliate links. I may receive a small commission from the pattern designer if you use them to purchase a pattern. I appreciate your support, and happy sewing!

Lucy in the sky- a little larking around

I was very excited to see princess seams on the latest pattern from 5 out of 4.  Lucy can be a top, tank, tee or dress.  It is the beginning of summer here and tanks and shorts are my absolute go to from March through October.  Perfect for spending time in the garden or behind the sewing machine.  Even without this strange trip of 2020, that is where I would be.  Maybe behind a machine in class, but that is a story for another day, whilst in a boat on a river, or something.

I really love the look of a color blocked princess seamed anything, those vertical lines are a body’s good friend.  Searched my stash for two compatible knits that were color coordinated and similar weight.  Thank you C19 for sparing me the urge to run to the fabric shop.  I kept searching.  My first go was a snugger knit than the pattern calls for.  A wicking knit that is monarch purple on one side, with a diagonal black (think twill) on the other side.  I serged the seams with black thread, then top stitched.  Bound the arms and neckline, instead of bands, and just serged the hem.  Voila!  One reversible top.  Which do you prefer?

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Due to my fabric choice, which was fun to make, but a little more snug around my torso than preferred, I continued to consider my stash. In the meantime, I was able to sneak   in a Lucy for my mini mini me out of the slivers of scraps.  For tips on tiny armbands, check out this post.  When she gets a little bigger and can request a “princess” dress, I will make one that has the lace up back option it is really cute.  When my daughter was small, I would purchase a half yard extra for my project, and make something for her from the same fabric.  She loved matching me and I told her that wearing it was like wearing a hug from me all. day. long.  Hugs….

Next up, more polyester, which I normally shun, but this was in my stash and has holes in it, so breathable, right?  I made a little change or two as follows.  On the side pieces only, I swung the hem out from just above the waistline.  Then, I curved it upwards.  It was very early or very late depending on perspective, so I used a handy thing.  A #10 envelope.  A bit more than 4 inches.  I curved the hem up on the side (on front and back side pieces only) by this much and out about half the width of the envelope (2ish inches).  And went for it.  I banded the neckline and bound the arm openings, narrow roll hemmed and happy to wear it in the garden on Mother’s Day.  For polyester, it was perfectly comfortable.  Planning to plant some flowers that grow so incredibly high, you know, the variety that tower over your head. First year planting Dahlias and some Mexican Torch Sunflowers are on the agenda this year.

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Lucy plays exceptionally well with Lola Shorts.  Stella Shorts were in the running for this #MMMay2020outfit as well.  A Rita Skirt would dress it up nicely.  So many choices!

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Next up, a dress with a ruffle hem, or maybe sleeves.  And more from the scraps for my mini mini, who noticed we had on the same fabric for our super quick photo shoot, and now says “grandma” via Face Time.  Check out the Lucy Bundle.

I really love a good basic pattern that can be spun off different directions.  The pattern includes instructions on how to move the bust curve to fit your shape.  I got to move mine down commensurate with 6 decades of gravity/multiple years breastfeeding, or a couple inches.  It looks great on everybody!

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This post contains affiliate links.  It costs you nothing to use them and I may earn a small commission from the pattern designer if you do.  Thank you!  Happy sewing – Joan

 

Rice Bags Made Easy

D67C67FB-F50B-4274-9961-2C09DBD09D5CWe have made a variation of these for years.  They are popular gifts, and when we saw extended family recently, there was much praise over Aunt Joan’s rice bag.  Hints about needing more were not missed.  The next generation has moved out on their own and needed more.

I had gotten pretty fancy and used coordinating fat quarters, stitched multiple channels and had gifted numerous 20 x 17 inch mini weighted blankets that after a few moments in the microwave provided instant bliss to the wearer.  In winter, I like to heat mine and tuck it under the covers like a hot water bottle, so my feet are bathed in sauna type heat when I climb into bed.

My niece keeps hers in a zip lock in the freezer and uses as a wrap for sports injuries.

The sewing teacher in me saw an opportunity.  We needed a work party!

The Friday after Christmas, we gathered at my daughters house.  She had received a serger and was anxious to use it. Coffee and tea and cousins were involved and everyone brought rice.

We made enough sixteen channeled 20″ x 20″ bags for everyone to take one home.

Then I heard a request for a knee wrap that is long and skinny and so and so would love one, my friend expecting her first baby needs this…

So we streamlined the process, and made more till we used all the rice.

My daughter was so excited, she ran out and bought more supplies, and as the professional photographer, took photos of the process, which I am pleased to share with you here.

  1.  Gather your supplies:  100% cotton fabric with a tight weave.  Non metallic please.  Quilting cotton works great.  Rice – Costco size is great- we used brown rice too.  Some people use feed corn (not pop corn).   Cotton thread!  Not sure how poly thread does in the microwave.  The biggest bowl you can get your hands on, a scoop or measuring cup, a funnel with a wide mouth is awesome- canning funnels work as do some automotive, as long as the rice can flow freely through the small end.  Alternatively, a card stock funnel could be helpful.  Optional bay leaves and whole spices or herbs like pepper, peppermint, lavender, etc.  A sewing machine, and standard tools.

2.  Cut your fabric.  We decided a 6 inch wide cut with 3/8 inch seams would work.  This was cut across the width of the fabric. In our work party, we were pressed for space, so I clipped the selvage edges at 6.5 inches and tore strips.  Either works!

CBAC2FB8-3E08-401B-8BA9-81CB49AE56B7I spy a familiar table sheet.  After she saw mine, my daughter requested one.

3.  Press down the short edges the width of the selvage.

This will give you a nice edge to work with and stitch closed at the end.  At our work party, we basted this edge so it would stay put.  Basting is a very cool step that saves ripping later.  It is also excellent sewing practice for new sewists.

3.  Stitch the side seams.  Sew with rights sides together.

2CFD59F9-135D-4E6B-A197-BB6228C6706BA straight stitch works fine.  Ms.  “must use my new serger” really enjoyed this part.  Tip- start from the open edges after you have positioned them as even as you can get them.  Back stitch at both ends or tuck in those serger tails.  Sew both sides.  A half inch seam allowance is great here!

4.  Turn your bag right side out and press. Use a chopstick to poke out those corners.

Tip- press the edges and narrowly top stitch around the three sewn edges to reinforce those seams and add spillage protection.

 

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5.  Press well, and hot dog fold to get a crease lengthwise down the center.

6.  Starting at the open end with the edges as closely matched as you can muster, stitch along the crease.
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7.  Press creases for the future horizontal seams.  We decided that dividing in thirds worked better than half, as it leaves a pocket of hot rice at the back of your neck as well as the sides.

You can also mark these with a friXion pen, chalk, or #2 pencil.  Stay away from water erasable markers.  We want to keep that rice dry.

8.  You are now ready to fill the first chambers with rice!  Get out the Big Purple bowl!
09A6537F-CF72-4EA2-BA73-FA6FD024B99DSorry I did not leave a funnel for her to use.  This might be the cap to laundry detergent.  Use what you have!

The idea is to fill both chambers evenly.  A good guide is to fill to the point halfway between markings. A57B793C-AFC0-4369-A392-97FAEFD5F5AB9.  You can pin across the bag just above the level of the rice to help hold it in place while you stitch across that first marked line.  Safety pins are nice.    Or skip the pins with only two chambers.  For the bigger bags, you will want pins to keep rice from spilling.
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10.  Do the same for the next two sets of chambers, keeping your amounts/ levels of rice even.  Be sure to add a bay leaf, before you sew that last opening closed.  They keep bugs at bay.

When heating your rice bag, start with 30 second increments, as volume of rice, wattage of microwaves can vary.  For this size, 2-3 minutes will be good.  Whatever you do, do not overheat, or get this item wet.  Once your rice bag is no longer useful, accidental trip through the washer, cat got to it, etc,  I would add it to the compost.

Like a quilt, mark the date on your rice bag.  It will give you a chuckle down the road.
B1C56F2D-E179-4E45-A099-47129CC7DAA8                                                            ***Warm wishes 2002***
Below is a collection of our vintage bags.
Some are 4 x 6 grids the pepper bag, reverse side of above is a 5×5 grid made from fat quarters.  I used 1/4 cup of rice in each chamber with a 24-25 chamber bag, about 6 cups of rice.  With the 15 chamber bags (4 x 4 grid) we used 1/3 cup rice in each chamber (5.33 cups total)  One cup of the rice we used weighed 8 ounces.  So with a little math you can plan your rice needs.  These weigh 2-3 pounds.

B198E6B9-0207-4D98-A2FA-E157D9E0D6D1This post may contain affiliate links which means I may receive a small commission from the seller if you purchase an item with them.  Thank you.

Warm Wishes to you in 2020, and happy sewing!  Joan

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It is in the bag!

Simple formula for lined bag with your choice of size, handle and closure!  So easy it is already “in the bag”.

 

Working with new sewists, I am continually on the look out for quick to make and clever useful projects.  More experienced seamsters can whip these out in batches. Early in the game sewists can experience easy success!    Teacher gifts, party favors, so many uses!  I am considering small bags from theme fabric to house a bar of hand made soap for an upcoming bridal shower.

Start with scraps if you like.  You will need two same size longish rectangles.  The formula is as follows:

Desired bag width plus 1 inch for seam allowances.  Desired height of bag times 2.5 to 2.75 for a generous flap.  If you have a specific item to bag, measure it now!

Play around with what you have on hand to start with and have some fun!

Right sides together, with a quarter inch seam allowance, sew both rectangles along one short side.

Open this.  Press the seam allowance towards the lining, and under stitch.  Under stitching will roll the seam towards the lining so this edge looks really clean.

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View of back side of bag after under stitching and top stitching!

 

Press and top stitch with a fancy stitch if you like.  If you plan to close your bag with hook and loop tape, include one side of the tape along the edge of the front of your bag now.

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For a firmer flap add a bit of fusible interfacing!

Align your work and trim off any excess fabric that may be caused by the under stitching.    With right sides together, pin the pieces together and draw a fancy shape for the flap, or leave it straight.  A hex ruler might be a nice tool to keep both sides symmetrical.  Stitch this seam.  A straight seam would under stitch nicely!

Optional “wrap” the corners of your fancy cut flap.

Make a strap!  A 14×3 inch rectangle folded rst lengthwise, stitched with a quarter inch seam turned and top stitched works great.  As does ribbon, webbing or twill tapeimage

Pin your strap that has been folded in half with raw edges aligned to the raw edges of the bag and the folded edge towards the center of the bag.  Set it just below where your flap ends and the bag begins so that it ends up near the top of your bag.  Baste in place.  In the photo my strap raw edges extend past the raw edge of the bag. This adds security and keeps the selvages on the strap from showing on the finished bag.

 

 

Now on for the tricky part:  See above, pull the bottom of the bag so that it covers the strap.  Pin the bag (both layers) to the outside cover only of the front of the bag on the right and left sides.  Then slip the lining of the bag over the front of the bag.  This basically turns the bag wrong side out and the lining will form a loop on top with the outer bag also forming a loop on the bottom.  The bag portion will be tucked up into the flap, but only just past the strap.    The remainder will be the flap.  If you are creating a specific size bag to fit a particular item.  Now is the second good time to measure.  (The first would be before you cut the fabric.) In the photo I used clips, as I had lined these bags with PUL.

 

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Side seam stitched with “L” seams!

Align right sides together, and make a 3/8 inch seam along this edge.  Making sure to back stitch over the strap to secure it.

Make sure the second side of you bag is lined up and symmetrical to the side you just sewed.

Create two “L” seams along this edge.  Start at the top and just about a half inch after you sew across the many layers of the sides of the bag.  Pivot and stitch to the edge creating a seam that looks like the capital letter “L”.  Then a few inches later along this edge, make another “L” seam that serves two purposes.  It leaves a clean and sturdy opening for turning and finishes the side seam of the bag.  A small bag needs a smaller opening than a larger bag.

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Second half of “L” seam!

Suggested ratio would be to leave an opening half the length of the bag side.

 

Flip it the bag right side out, this may take multiple flipping to be sure the lining is on the inside.  Poke out corners with a handy tool (chopsticks work great here!).  Pin the opening closed with the raw edges neatly tucked inside.  Top stitch narrowly to ensure that the opening is securely closed.

 

Complete the closure by adding the other half of the hook and loop tape to the inside of the flap, or add snaps, buttonholes and buttons, or whatever makes your heart happy. Kam Snaps make my heart happy!  I get mine locally at Hip Stitch and would be glad to show you how easy they are to apply.  A pattern with measurements, and possibly kits will be available in July 2016.

This makes a great snack bag, holiday gift bag, cosmetics, or think fusible fleece for an electronics bag.

Happy sewing!  Joanimage