Sophie top

D02A352E-B4BC-49EA-A55E-DAEF7755E44CI had the pleasure of testing 5oo4’s first woven top.  Jessica did not miss a beat with this one.  A lightweight woven sleeveless top is my go to all summer long.  The placket on this one is worth working on.  It elevates a simple tank into something special.

THE SOPHIE SHIRT AND DRESS INCLUDES:
– Women’s sizes XXS – 5XL
– Bust darts
– Collar or bias binding for neckline
– Sleeveless binding, Ruffle, or Half-circle Short Sleeves
– Shirt can be hemmed or have a split hem
– Dresses can be hemmed or have a ruffle
– Shirt, Knee-length dress, or maxi dress
– Pockets!
– Interactive tutorial that links to Sewing School videos

With a v neck, and a fun angled placket, you can end up with a diamond shaped box.  My first placket was not as tidy as I would have liked.  So I put some thought into it.  The pattern calls for a drapey woven, which would probably comply better to the bit of curve required here.  I used light weight quilting cotton and plan a lawn for the next one.

I extended the V shape an additional inch straight down and used a wide bias tape, instead of the straight of grain placket pattern piece. Say that three times quickly!  I marked the width of my bias tape (just under an inch) centered in the middle, 1/2 inch below the spot where the split ended. Made my own dots, so it was clear to me where to stop stitching. 13698B89-EAB2-48B0-BBA4-0DBEEFEBFA72

I trimmed one edge of the bias tape so there was only 3/8 inch remaining  from the outside fold.  Then stitched it to the back of the vee portion of the neckline.   Clipped diagonally to the dots, as the pattern instructs.

Wrapped the bias around to the front and top stitched.  The bias allows for the placket to follow the curve nicely.  Ending up with less of an angle where the two plackets end helped the box be more square. Don’t get me wrong, the diamond shaped placket bottom looks really cool.

For nursing access, one could extend the placket a little further and add buttons or snaps.

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I used me-made wide bias tape for the neckline, and cut the remainder in half lengthwise for the armcyes.  I really should have looked at what I had on supply first, but I was so happy to be sewing something other than masks, I just went for it.  With the placket opening on the front, I wanted a split hem to keep in the theme.  Jessica was a real champ to add it to the pattern, even though it meant writing more instructions.  That was my first hack.  I am holding the vents closed in the photo so fit and ease could be ascertained.  Then, I took that hack a step further….

I also recently tested a placketed shirt for my grand baby from another designer.  It takes the split hem to another level by facing the opening and reinforcing it with a narrow strip of bias.  You will want to get the pattern for best instructions, but it had me looking at my father’s old polo shirts to see how this vent facing thing worked!  Glad I saved those for upcycling.  I used one of these shirts to make one for my grand baby.  So interesting to see the different vent options inside and out.

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I had a little bit of this bias tape leftover, and used Tie Dye Diva’s tutorial from Cee’s Tee to reinforce the hem vent.

The gist of it is like this.  I had to read through the instructions many many times.  First you hem the top.  Then cut the bias tape a couple inches longer than twice the opening.  With one end of the bias tape tucked under stitch it up the side of the opening to the point where the seam begins.    Leaving the excess at the top of the opening.  Stitch the other side.
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By some kind of TDD magic there is enough at the top to create this fold.  It is taller than the opening, but we will address that later with a bar tack after top stitching the edges.

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Below is the photo with the edges of the vent facing top stitched down, and getting ready to bar tack that top area closed, down to the opening.

 

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It really adds a fun pop of color and speaks to the neckline opening.

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Totally making this top again.  I find woven fabric much cooler than knits when it gets really warm.  Planning to stitch my color popping vent on the outside of the split next time!

This post contains affiliate links which at no cost to you helps me with a tiny bit of commission from the sale of the pattern.  I appreciate it very much, as that helps me to buy more patterns.   

Wishing you good health and happy sewing!  – Joan

More masks – curved seam

7AC6F7DD-4F63-452F-BE64-F95551517806March 6, 2019, at the onset of the Covid19 crisis,  we were warned against hugging, shaking hands, and were advised to wear masks.  This was in yoga class, by a student with medical training.  Lucky me, I made masks the year before in hopes of seeing my first grand baby before we had all of our immunizations.  This post is purely a “how to” using the mask pattern from Craft Passion. That site has been updated to include a version with a pocket, so the end user can add additional filtration if desired. Do your own research about the efficiency of mask wearing.  This is all about the making.

  1.  Print the pattern, choose your size.  I traced off both the outer mask and the liner on card stock so I could trace off multiples. Note that seam allowances and casings need to be added to the pattern. I made my liner just a little smaller.            A29E5C9E-877A-490D-9215-066CA25EC708 I like the seam to roll to the lining side.
  2. CF90CEFE-E65F-4E6B-B172-436441C90E8C
  3. Cut your fabric.  With careful folding of your prewashed and dried fabric, the both the outer and liner pieces tessellated nicely.  Using two different fabrics and the chemicals used in fabric processing, prewashing is a must do item!  I traced with a coordinating sharpie.  Tip, fold your fabric right sides together, so you can pick up a pair and sew, without the fiddling of placing each set right sides together one pair at a time just before sewing.
  4. I like to cut in sets of 4 or 8.  Choose 2-3 coordinating fabrics, mix and match. Start sewing from the bottom of the mask.    With the pointy end of the mask towards you, stitch the curved edge of your mask with 1/4 inch seam allowance.  That pointy end is skinny and has a better chance of getting stuck in the hole that your needle goes into.  Chain piece to save time and thread. I highly recommend chain piecing in manageable batches for each following step.
  5. Separate the mask lining from the mask outer pairs. It is easier to do this now, rather than later when it is hard to distinguish between the two.
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  6. Top stitch that center seam.  With the seam allowance facing left, and your needle in the left position, top stitch the curved seam of your mask and lining.  If you have a blind hem foot, the guide helps aid in straighter stitches.  Carefully ease your pieces away from each other to avoid puckering.  Tip:  start at the bottom of the mask like you did above. Those pointy pieces still like to find their way down to the bobbin.  Do this step on both the inner and outer pieces.
  7. Put the outer masks aside and gather up the lining pieces.  Fold the side of the mask over 1/4 inch and 1/4 inch again to create a narrow hem. Stitch this down as shown.  Repeat on the other side. C51D208F-4359-4ACE-988E-15BF1974D899
  8. With right sides facing, place one lining on top of one outer.  Match up center seams.  The top stitching from step 5 will be offset with one pointing right and the other pointing left.  Stitch with 1/4 inch seam allowance across the bottom (mostly straight) edge of the mask.  Start on the longer piece, and stitch all the way across. The stitching on the single layer may seem redundant, but it allows for a firmer edge to the casing.
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  9. Clip into the seam allowance up to 1/8 inch from your seam either side of center.  This will prevent puckering later. E5939C34-F076-4AAF-8F18-C348E093606F
  10. Under stitch the bottom seam.  With the mask opened up and seam allowance facing toward the lining, stitch 1/8 inch away from the seam you just made on the lining.  All the way across.  This helps the lining roll to the back of the mask, reinforces the edge, including the single layers that will later become the casings.
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  11. Fold the mask right sides together and make a 1/4 inch seam across the top of your mask.  Just like the bottom seam there will be about an inch and a half of single layer mask before you get to the lining.  Stitching here reinforces the casing opening. Carefully stitch across the upper curve, matching the center seams, then down the other side.  You just created a filter pocket!
  12. Flip your mask right sides out, press out the edges.  Use an iron if you wish.  Lining side up, fold the seam allowance over and top stitch as if to hem, continue top stitching across the entire mask edge.
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  13. Top stitch the top edge, taking care around the nose curve to prevent puckering.  If you would care to add a  second line of stitching to create a pocket, here is where you can add that.
  14. Casings:  I chose to make my 9 inch long elastics into loops prior to slipping them  them into casings.  C373625E-EBBE-4353-87E2-6FAD15DA8BACLots of things can be used as a drawstring as well.  Shoe strings, strips of tee shirt, longer elastic, twill tape, bias strips.  Overlap the elastic ends 1/2 inch and stitch back and forth two times.  This process can also be chain pieced.  C424086D-289F-4999-921B-0E05E9AC7BA4
  15. With or without the elastic enclosed. Fold the casing to the wrong side twice, so it snugs up to the hem in the side of the lining.  Pull the elastic out of the way, and sew across the edge of the casing.  Secure the ends of the stitch.
  16. If you are not using elastic, make your casings, and thread the drawstring through.  I have made two drawstrings that go through the casing at 30 inches long. or one at 45 inches long that goes through both casings.

Edit:  I hope to have time to add photos of some of the steps above.  They should be self explanatory.  Off to make pleated masks now.  I helps with the tedium to switch back and forth.

Wash your mask before each use.  Stay safe.  Joan

Calder pants

C9E65E9E-D597-44E9-95FD-E474D856CCB8I live in shorts 3/4 of the year or more, so when I saw the latest pattern by Cashmerette, I did not have to think twice.   Woven shorts with a flat front, pockets, and elastic waist? Yes please!  This is a perfect pairing with one of the many Spruce tops I love and live in.

Was happy to get this pair from a 2 yard duck cloth remnant.  A little bit of leftover may net me a matching mask or two.  I may or may not have completely followed directions.  I skipped the pocket facing, as my fabric is pretty firm. I did not bother looking for a lighter fabric for them. Would be worth it in a heavy fabric or fancy pants, though.  The pockets laid out nicely on a folded piece, and just about the time I was going to cut the fold, I thought better of it.  Left them whole.
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A bit like sewing on raglan sleeves.  Front, pocket, back, pocket, front.  This fabric was a little fray prone, so flat felled seams with a bit of a wobble stitch to allow for bias stretch where it is needed in the critical spots.

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Inseam got the flat fell treatment too.
Stitched, then under stitched the pockets.

Then french seamed the side seams into the pocket.  After I sewed the first seam, I trimmed off the stray bits then clipped into the section where my needle is paused in the first photo.

Sorry I did not grab a photo of the right thigh patch pocket (phone sized), or my waistband treatment.  Will save that for another post.  I did make 2 channels for the elastic and I fused the waistband.  Not one for tucking in my shirt, I might rethink that.  Love the wide waistband!
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Relatively quick, and very satisfying sew.

The End.

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Masks with assorted pleat styles

0720345B-49DF-40A1-81D2-FD48C5F54C76Scrambling to make masks and keep up with requests I did a little a little pleat experiment.    Found some 9×13 inch scraps of a lightweight cotton, whipped up four quick masks Deaconess style, but made a box pleat instead of pleats that all went the same direction.  This mask did not have a pocket for additional filtration.  Since I do not know who my end user will be, I like to leave the pocket option open.

For the second iteration, I used two different fabric strips that were 7.5 inches wide.  Hemmed one long edge of each piece, stitched the two strips together along the other long edge right sides together.  Under stitch the seam with the seam allowance towards the lining, 1/8 inch away from the seam on the lining side.  If you are using 42 inch wide fabric, this method will net you 4 masks from two 7.5 inch tall strips that are the width of the fabric.  If you are not concerned with having a right and wrong side of the mask.  (pollen season yard work) then save time with one strip of fabric that is 14 inches or more by the width of the fabric.

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Under stitching

Next I sub cut my strips into 9 inch wide segments.

With the segments cut, I opened the pieces and slipped in the ties (or elastic if you can get it).

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Inserting 7 inch strip of elastic

If you can not find elastic, you can add ties like this.  Pin a tie into each of the lining four corners, fold the main fabric over and sew along the right and left sides.  Be sure to back stitch over the elastic or tie.  If you are sewing elastic, you will need to stitch the top portion of this seam, then stretch the elastic so that the other end of the elastic can be encased at the seam near the bottom of the mask.  Repeat for the other side.  Leave the hemmed bottom section alone for now.  This creates a pocket so that the end user can add additional filtration layers if available/desired.

I like to leave a tiny tail, so my tie does not unravel and work its way loose.
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Flip your mask right side out.  It will look like this.

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Your job now is to decide how to pleat.  Most commercial masks have pleats so that they are angled down, away from the wearer.  I put pins in the sides of the mask at the half and quarter marks.

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Mask side with pins at the quarter marks

Start your pleating/top stitching at the top (closed) of the mask.  Make a few stitches and back stitch. Slip the first pin under as far as it will go.

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First pleat.

Sew into this pleat, removing the pin just before it crosses path with the needle.

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Second pleat

Follow this process of bringing the pin of the next pleat under the mask as you start the current pleat.

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Last pleat

When you get to the end of the row of pleats, pivot and top stitch the lining and main mask hems together for about one inch.  Then stitch back to the side and either very close to the edge, or 1/4 inch the other side of your previous pleat top stitching, sew back up the row of pleats.  Note some machines will be happier sewing on the very edge and others may like sewing on the other side of your first set of stitches.  When you get to the top, pivot and edge stitch across the top of the mask, and top stitch the other row of pleats.

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Top stitching about an inch at the corner of the hem.

 

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Stitching back up the first row of pleats

Side 2

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Second side pleat tucking under and top stitching.

Top stitch the second side mirror image to the first.  Aim to make your pleats symmetrical.  The body of your mask will be under the head of the machine.  Once you have your pleats stitched down, pivot at the hem and secure about an inch of the hem on this side.  Turn around stitch back towards the edge, pivot again, and stitch back up the second set of pleats.  Secure your stitches and admire your work!

Option 2 – Box pleat.  Depending on your user’s situation, you can make a box pleat.  I found this method to be a lot faster.  For a person who wants a mask for casual use this may be a good option.  Concerns about things being caught in the tiny pocket formed at the top of the pleat are a good reason to use the method above to make a louvered pleat.

Not worried about that, read on…

Take your freshly turned right side out mask and fold the hem to the top of the mask.  Find the center spot between the edges and the newly created fold.  Place a pin on either side.
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Open up the mask, and open up the pleat so that it is spread evenly across the center pin.

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In this photo, I added a pin on either side of the pleat.  Carefully sew down this side, securing that pleat. Sew down, across the bottom one inch, back to the edge, back up, across the top and repeat the pleat securing process on side two.

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Box pleated

I was able to get a tighter side by making the box pleat than I was with the triple pleat.  Even with the same fabric both sides it is simple to tell the inside from the outside with the box pleat.  Different people will have different preferences.  Go forth and sew and know your work is appreciated.

Disclaimer:  I can not test this method for virus protection.  Please do your own research, prewash your fabric and stay healthy!  Happy sewing – Joan

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Stained Glass Easter Eggs

CA926023-B968-4947-A2F3-017834D9F2C2For our first April art class, we are making a project based on an art form called stained glass!  Stained glass is many pieces of colored glass held together (usually by lead) to make a picture.  It is breathtakingly beautiful when the sun shines through it.  Sometimes the glass is painted.

For our project, you will need something to draw on, something to outline with and something to color with, scissors to cut out your shape, something to make a hole with and string to hang your art.  You can draw your egg (or any other) shape on card stock, a transparency page, or up-cycled paper.

Black glue or sharpie

Use either a sharpie or black glue for a 3-D effect on your transparency or paper.

1.  Draw your main shape with either a fine point or bigger black sharpie.  For a 3-D effect you can use black glue.  Black glue acts as a resist. For a fun video on this project, check out this video.

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2.  Draw interior designs inside your basic shape.  We can talk about open shapes, like the letters JI&N, or closed shapes like the letters PO&D.  Which types of shapes do you think will work best?  Let it dry.  The black glue and transparency sheet should dry overnight.  There are many shapes that you can trace here.  Or have fun and freehand it.

3.  Decide which colors you want in your design.  Arrange your markers from lightest to darkest.  Start with yellow, orange, red, purple, blue and green.
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4.  Start coloring with the lightest color, yellow, and color everything you want in yellow, next move to orange, and so on.  You may wish to test your marker to be sure it gives you the results you want somewhere in the margins (spaces between) your shapes.

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5.  For large spaces, outline the inside of the border before filling in that space with color.  Experiment with coloring horizontally, vertically, or in circles.  Can you see a difference?
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6.  After you have given your shape time to dry, cut out your shape carefully around the outside of your border.

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7.  With a hole punch, put a hole in your shape in the middle of the top.

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Carefully punch a hole near the top of your shape. Alternatively, you can use tape to hang your art. 

8. Slide a length of string through the hole and tie the two ends together in an overhand knot.  After you have made several shapes, try your hand and make a mobile using a clothes hanger or sticks.

9.  Clean up your space, wash your hands, and ask for help to hang your stained glass eggs, and enjoy seeing what you made.

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Completed egg in front of window. Is this an optical illusion?  

Next time you can try using colored tissue paper and glue to make this project like they did here.

Happy art-making!  Love Ms.Joan

 

 

 

 

Smooth waistband finish

Spring will soon be here, so better hurry to finish those pants I bought fabric for in the fall!  After making the standard crotch depth adjustments dictated by my flexible ruler, I sewed two pair along side a student who was making her first pair in black. After our first session, the waistband and hems were all that remained to be done.  I thought I would try something a little bit different.  I chose the waistband labeled “contoured”.  The ends of the rectangles were at a slight angle.  Pattern instructed me to cut four. I sewed each pair into a loop. When sewing the last side seam, I  left an inch long gap in the seam.

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Sew from the top edge to an inch past center.  Skip one inch and sew the remainder of the seam.

The loop with the hole will be your lining piece.  Clean finish the longer edge of this one.

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The waist band lining is the loop with the gap.  Finish the bottom (longer) edge of that loop.

Sew both loops right sides together at the top edge (the shorter edge).   Measure a length of elastic around your waist, where the top of the pants will go.  Make sure this is tight enough to keep your pants up, but not so tight to be uncomfortable. Sew it in a loop, and mark the half and quarter points.  Mark the half way points between the seams on your waist band.

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After the two loops are sewn together (rst) around the top edge, attach the elastic to only the seam allowance with a stretch stitch.  In this photo, I overlapped 1/4 inch and zig zagged.

You can see in the photo above that I used grey serger thread.  In order to keep the lighter thread from showing on the right side, I added a short narrow zig zag in a thread that more closely matches.

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Elastic in any width can be used. This is 1 inch wide, and slightly longer than the fabric waistband. This causes a little rippling on the hanger, but is smooth and comfortable when worn.

Fold the elastic towards the lining piece of your waistband and stitch it down to the lining with a wide serpentine stitch.

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Elastic needs to be secured to the lining.  In a big understitch fashion, using the widest serpentine stitch, I sewed the elastic to the waist band lining in two rows.  From the inside it looks like this.

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From right to left, zig zag stitch that secured the elastic band to the seam allowance, first row of serpentine, second row of serpentine.

Pin or clip your waistband in quarters, attach the right (unfinished side) of the waistband to the right edge of the pants, aligning the side seams.  Divide these sections in half again and pin or clip.  Stitch the waistband to the pants with a stretchy stitch and a half inch seam allowance all around the circle.  I was surprised at how much easing was needed.

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With the seam you just made tucked up under the waistband, lay the facing over top with the previously finished edge down towards the pants.  Pin so that the seam allowance is secured and pointing up.

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With the seam allowance tucked under the waistband, lay the lining over top, and pin around the circle through the seam allowance.  Flip  the pants over and top stitch along the bottom of the waistband.

9D003221-4E41-4059-BBAD-8106F87877B2 I used a short narrow zig zag and stretched while I sewed.  Remove each pin as you get to it.

About that small gap in the lining side seam we left earlier… if your waistband ends up not quite tight enough, that is an excellent spot to thread another piece of elastic through just enough to snug them up.

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Secret area left open to add more elastic later if needed.

 

Dubious about the gathers while sewing.  I put them on and by magic the gathering went away!
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By overlapping the facing, the multiple layers of waistline are dispersed and reduced at the point where waistband meets pants which reduces bulk.  Those small details add up to a nicer garment.

For these pants, I took photos of both the navy and purple Supplex I used.

The pattern used is here.  Another pattern that works would be this one.

These are my affiliate links for patterns.  At no cost to you, the designer may compensate me with a small commission when people use them to purchase a pattern.  Thank you for using these links.

Thanks for reading, and happy sewing! Joan

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bags for ABQ & AUS

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Seeing the massive crafting efforts for our neighbors in the Southern Hemisphere ignited a spark in me to figure out a way to participate.  I found many instructions for the various types of animal pouches on line, and they were a little overwhelming . So when our school director decided on a school service project, I opted to organize something I was already familiar with.

Re-enter the Boomerang bag.  A trend started in Australia of up cycling fabrics that might otherwise find their way to the landfill, then distributing these to library patrons and encouraging them to bring the bags back with their books for reuse.  I adore that the design is fabric efficient.  Two bags from one yard of fabric, and no waste!

To incorporate this service project into the art class I teach weekly, we shopped local and purchased 10 different prints of fabrics designed by aboriginal artists.

There is quite a bit of prep work before any sewing can happen, and this is how I did it.

With one yard fabric that is 44 inches wide, folded like it is from the shops, cut a seven inch strip parallel to the fold.  From this strip, cross cut an 8 inch piece, then cut this on the fold and you have two 7 x 8 inch pockets.

Fold down 1/4 inch and one inch again and press.  Below, I made one pocket “portrait” and the other “landscape”.  Stitch across both of the folded edges of that one inch to hem the upper edge of your pocket.  After that fold in the other three sides of the pocket 1/4 inch and press.

Fold under the short ends of the larger pieces you have left by 1/4 and again by 1 inch and press.  Set these aside till later.

For the straps, take the remaining 28 x 14 inch piece of fabric and cut it into four 3.5 x 28 inch strips.  These will be your straps.  8CE33159-9A5D-44A9-8E8A-91E0C407890A

Fold each strap in half lengthwise and press to crease. Open that, the fold the raw edges to almost center, press, then fold that in half to form your strap and press again.  Sew the open edge of your strap closed, 1/8 inch away from the edge.  Do the same with the other side.  My Bernina has a #20 foot that is perfect for this!

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Pin your pocket on the inside or outside of your bag where you would like it.  I like mine centered and about four inches down from the raw edge of the body of the bag.  With the hemmed edge of the pocket pointing up, sew around all three edges, making sure to reinforce the top edges of the stitching with a short parallel row, so that your pocket is secure.

Each of your bag bodies will have one selvage edge.  Clean finish the other edge.  In the photo below, I used a narrow zig zag stitch.

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Next stitch the side seams.  Once those are done, square off the corners of the bag, making marks that create a square from the sewn or folded edge.  The handy tool here is a needle case that is 1.75 inches square.  01002685-1144-4A89-87CB-98467C9D8356

From here, we will box our corners.  With one hand in the bag, open it up, so that all you see is a diagonal line across the corner.  The seam line will match up with the folded edge.  Keep the seam open and stitch across this corner along the lines you have drawn. Do this on both bottom corners of your bag.   D5520D87-26A4-4704-806C-B5AD23314F9B

Mark strap placement.  From the seam line, mark a spot five inches into the bag from each seam on both sides of the bag.  This is where we will insert our straps.

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Here, I centered the strap on top of that 5 inch mark and snuggled the raw end up to the inside fold of the top of the bag.  Without twisting the strap bring the other end of the strap up to the other 5 inch mark.

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Clip your straps in place, and stitch around the folded edge to secure it down and encase the ends of the straps in your hem.

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I like to enclose a 6 inch strip of elastic in the upper hem of the bag across from the pocket.  It enables me to roll up the bag and secure it with the band for storage.

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When you have completely circled the bag with a row of stitching to secure the loose end of your hem, bring the straps up out of the bag, and sew the top edge of the bag, including those straps.  You may want to back tack over the straps to secure them further.

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I enjoyed sewing these bags with the students at school.  We sold them and have been able to raise $275.00 for the World Wildlife Fund, where we studied about the food drops to the affected areas of Australia.  Thankful to the families that supported this service project, and hope they remember to use their bags here in Albuquerque to reduce the plastic bag issues we have here.

Thank you to Liz at Nob Hill Fabrics, for carrying the aboriginal designed prints.  I feel a special kinship with them.  Also thank you for providing me a space to teach.  $200 in class fees from the bag class held January 25th was donated to help Wildlife Victoria.

My goal was to raise $500 total from both efforts, and we very nearly got there!

 

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