Smooth waistband finish

Spring will soon be here, so better hurry to finish those pants I bought fabric for in the fall!  After making the standard crotch depth adjustments dictated by my flexible ruler, I sewed two pair along side a student who was making her first pair in black. After our first session, the waistband and hems were all that remained to be done.  I thought I would try something a little bit different.  I chose the waistband labeled “contoured”.  The ends of the rectangles were at a slight angle.  Pattern instructed me to cut four. I sewed each pair into a loop. When sewing the last side seam, I  left an inch long gap in the seam.

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Sew from the top edge to an inch past center.  Skip one inch and sew the remainder of the seam.

The loop with the hole will be your lining piece.  Clean finish the longer edge of this one.

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The waist band lining is the loop with the gap.  Finish the bottom (longer) edge of that loop.

Sew both loops right sides together at the top edge (the shorter edge).   Measure a length of elastic around your waist, where the top of the pants will go.  Make sure this is tight enough to keep your pants up, but not so tight to be uncomfortable. Sew it in a loop, and mark the half and quarter points.  Mark the half way points between the seams on your waist band.

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After the two loops are sewn together (rst) around the top edge, attach the elastic to only the seam allowance with a stretch stitch.  In this photo, I overlapped 1/4 inch and zig zagged.

You can see in the photo above that I used grey serger thread.  In order to keep the lighter thread from showing on the right side, I added a short narrow zig zag in a thread that more closely matches.

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Elastic in any width can be used. This is 1 inch wide, and slightly longer than the fabric waistband. This causes a little rippling on the hanger, but is smooth and comfortable when worn.

Fold the elastic towards the lining piece of your waistband and stitch it down to the lining with a wide serpentine stitch.

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Elastic needs to be secured to the lining.  In a big understitch fashion, using the widest serpentine stitch, I sewed the elastic to the waist band lining in two rows.  From the inside it looks like this.

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From right to left, zig zag stitch that secured the elastic band to the seam allowance, first row of serpentine, second row of serpentine.

Pin or clip your waistband in quarters, attach the right (unfinished side) of the waistband to the right edge of the pants, aligning the side seams.  Divide these sections in half again and pin or clip.  Stitch the waistband to the pants with a stretchy stitch and a half inch seam allowance all around the circle.  I was surprised at how much easing was needed.

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With the seam you just made tucked up under the waistband, lay the facing over top with the previously finished edge down towards the pants.  Pin so that the seam allowance is secured and pointing up.

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With the seam allowance tucked under the waistband, lay the lining over top, and pin around the circle through the seam allowance.  Flip  the pants over and top stitch along the bottom of the waistband.

9D003221-4E41-4059-BBAD-8106F87877B2 I used a short narrow zig zag and stretched while I sewed.  Remove each pin as you get to it.

About that small gap in the lining side seam we left earlier… if your waistband ends up not quite tight enough, that is an excellent spot to thread another piece of elastic through just enough to snug them up.

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Secret area left open to add more elastic later if needed.

 

Dubious about the gathers while sewing.  I put them on and by magic the gathering went away!
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By overlapping the facing, the multiple layers of waistline are dispersed and reduced at the point where waistband meets pants which reduces bulk.  Those small details add up to a nicer garment.

For these pants, I took photos of both the navy and purple Supplex I used.

The pattern used is here.  Another pattern that works would be this one.

These are my affiliate links for patterns.  At no cost to you, the designer may compensate me with a small commission when people use them to purchase a pattern.  Thank you for using these links.

Thanks for reading, and happy sewing! Joan

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bags for ABQ & AUS

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Seeing the massive crafting efforts for our neighbors in the Southern Hemisphere ignited a spark in me to figure out a way to participate.  I found many instructions for the various types of animal pouches on line, and they were a little overwhelming . So when our school director decided on a school service project, I opted to organize something I was already familiar with.

Re-enter the Boomerang bag.  A trend started in Australia of up cycling fabrics that might otherwise find their way to the landfill, then distributing these to library patrons and encouraging them to bring the bags back with their books for reuse.  I adore that the design is fabric efficient.  Two bags from one yard of fabric, and no waste!

To incorporate this service project into the art class I teach weekly, we shopped local and purchased 10 different prints of fabrics designed by aboriginal artists.

There is quite a bit of prep work before any sewing can happen, and this is how I did it.

With one yard fabric that is 44 inches wide, folded like it is from the shops, cut a seven inch strip parallel to the fold.  From this strip, cross cut an 8 inch piece, then cut this on the fold and you have two 7 x 8 inch pockets.

Fold down 1/4 inch and one inch again and press.  Below, I made one pocket “portrait” and the other “landscape”.  Stitch across both of the folded edges of that one inch to hem the upper edge of your pocket.  After that fold in the other three sides of the pocket 1/4 inch and press.

Fold under the short ends of the larger pieces you have left by 1/4 and again by 1 inch and press.  Set these aside till later.

For the straps, take the remaining 28 x 14 inch piece of fabric and cut it into four 3.5 x 28 inch strips.  These will be your straps.  8CE33159-9A5D-44A9-8E8A-91E0C407890A

Fold each strap in half lengthwise and press to crease. Open that, the fold the raw edges to almost center, press, then fold that in half to form your strap and press again.  Sew the open edge of your strap closed, 1/8 inch away from the edge.  Do the same with the other side.  My Bernina has a #20 foot that is perfect for this!

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Pin your pocket on the inside or outside of your bag where you would like it.  I like mine centered and about four inches down from the raw edge of the body of the bag.  With the hemmed edge of the pocket pointing up, sew around all three edges, making sure to reinforce the top edges of the stitching with a short parallel row, so that your pocket is secure.

Each of your bag bodies will have one selvage edge.  Clean finish the other edge.  In the photo below, I used a narrow zig zag stitch.

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Next stitch the side seams.  Once those are done, square off the corners of the bag, making marks that create a square from the sewn or folded edge.  The handy tool here is a needle case that is 1.75 inches square.  01002685-1144-4A89-87CB-98467C9D8356

From here, we will box our corners.  With one hand in the bag, open it up, so that all you see is a diagonal line across the corner.  The seam line will match up with the folded edge.  Keep the seam open and stitch across this corner along the lines you have drawn. Do this on both bottom corners of your bag.   D5520D87-26A4-4704-806C-B5AD23314F9B

Mark strap placement.  From the seam line, mark a spot five inches into the bag from each seam on both sides of the bag.  This is where we will insert our straps.

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Here, I centered the strap on top of that 5 inch mark and snuggled the raw end up to the inside fold of the top of the bag.  Without twisting the strap bring the other end of the strap up to the other 5 inch mark.

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Clip your straps in place, and stitch around the folded edge to secure it down and encase the ends of the straps in your hem.

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I like to enclose a 6 inch strip of elastic in the upper hem of the bag across from the pocket.  It enables me to roll up the bag and secure it with the band for storage.

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When you have completely circled the bag with a row of stitching to secure the loose end of your hem, bring the straps up out of the bag, and sew the top edge of the bag, including those straps.  You may want to back tack over the straps to secure them further.

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I enjoyed sewing these bags with the students at school.  We sold them and have been able to raise $275.00 for the World Wildlife Fund, where we studied about the food drops to the affected areas of Australia.  Thankful to the families that supported this service project, and hope they remember to use their bags here in Albuquerque to reduce the plastic bag issues we have here.

Thank you to Liz at Nob Hill Fabrics, for carrying the aboriginal designed prints.  I feel a special kinship with them.  Also thank you for providing me a space to teach.  $200 in class fees from the bag class held January 25th was donated to help Wildlife Victoria.

My goal was to raise $500 total from both efforts, and we very nearly got there!

 

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Rice Bags Made Easy

D67C67FB-F50B-4274-9961-2C09DBD09D5CWe have made a variation of these for years.  They are popular gifts, and when we saw extended family recently, there was much praise over Aunt Joan’s rice bag.  Hints about needing more were not missed.  The next generation has moved out on their own and needed more.

I had gotten pretty fancy and used coordinating fat quarters, stitched multiple channels and had gifted numerous 20 x 17 inch mini weighted blankets that after a few moments in the microwave provided instant bliss to the wearer.  In winter, I like to heat mine and tuck it under the covers like a hot water bottle, so my feet are bathed in sauna type heat when I climb into bed.

My niece keeps hers in a zip lock in the freezer and uses as a wrap for sports injuries.

The sewing teacher in me saw an opportunity.  We needed a work party!

The Friday after Christmas, we gathered at my daughters house.  She had received a serger and was anxious to use it. Coffee and tea and cousins were involved and everyone brought rice.

We made enough sixteen channeled 20″ x 20″ bags for everyone to take one home.

Then I heard a request for a knee wrap that is long and skinny and so and so would love one, my friend expecting her first baby needs this…

So we streamlined the process, and made more till we used all the rice.

My daughter was so excited, she ran out and bought more supplies, and as the professional photographer, took photos of the process, which I am pleased to share with you here.

  1.  Gather your supplies:  100% cotton fabric with a tight weave.  Non metallic please.  Quilting cotton works great.  Rice – Costco size is great- we used brown rice too.  Some people use feed corn (not pop corn).   Cotton thread!  Not sure how poly thread does in the microwave.  The biggest bowl you can get your hands on, a scoop or measuring cup, a funnel with a wide mouth is awesome- canning funnels work as do some automotive, as long as the rice can flow freely through the small end.  Alternatively, a card stock funnel could be helpful.  Optional bay leaves and whole spices or herbs like pepper, peppermint, lavender, etc.  A sewing machine, and standard tools.

2.  Cut your fabric.  We decided a 6 inch wide cut with 3/8 inch seams would work.  This was cut across the width of the fabric. In our work party, we were pressed for space, so I clipped the selvage edges at 6.5 inches and tore strips.  Either works!

CBAC2FB8-3E08-401B-8BA9-81CB49AE56B7I spy a familiar table sheet.  After she saw mine, my daughter requested one.

3.  Press down the short edges the width of the selvage.

This will give you a nice edge to work with and stitch closed at the end.  At our work party, we basted this edge so it would stay put.  Basting is a very cool step that saves ripping later.  It is also excellent sewing practice for new sewists.

3.  Stitch the side seams.  Sew with rights sides together.

2CFD59F9-135D-4E6B-A197-BB6228C6706BA straight stitch works fine.  Ms.  “must use my new serger” really enjoyed this part.  Tip- start from the open edges after you have positioned them as even as you can get them.  Back stitch at both ends or tuck in those serger tails.  Sew both sides.  A half inch seam allowance is great here!

4.  Turn your bag right side out and press. Use a chopstick to poke out those corners.

Tip- press the edges and narrowly top stitch around the three sewn edges to reinforce those seams and add spillage protection.

 

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5.  Press well, and hot dog fold to get a crease lengthwise down the center.

6.  Starting at the open end with the edges as closely matched as you can muster, stitch along the crease.
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7.  Press creases for the future horizontal seams.  We decided that dividing in thirds worked better than half, as it leaves a pocket of hot rice at the back of your neck as well as the sides.

You can also mark these with a friXion pen, chalk, or #2 pencil.  Stay away from water erasable markers.  We want to keep that rice dry.

8.  You are now ready to fill the first chambers with rice!  Get out the Big Purple bowl!
09A6537F-CF72-4EA2-BA73-FA6FD024B99DSorry I did not leave a funnel for her to use.  This might be the cap to laundry detergent.  Use what you have!

The idea is to fill both chambers evenly.  A good guide is to fill to the point halfway between markings. A57B793C-AFC0-4369-A392-97FAEFD5F5AB9.  You can pin across the bag just above the level of the rice to help hold it in place while you stitch across that first marked line.  Safety pins are nice.    Or skip the pins with only two chambers.  For the bigger bags, you will want pins to keep rice from spilling.
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10.  Do the same for the next two sets of chambers, keeping your amounts/ levels of rice even.  Be sure to add a bay leaf, before you sew that last opening closed.  They keep bugs at bay.

When heating your rice bag, start with 30 second increments, as volume of rice, wattage of microwaves can vary.  For this size, 2-3 minutes will be good.  Whatever you do, do not overheat, or get this item wet.  Once your rice bag is no longer useful, accidental trip through the washer, cat got to it, etc,  I would add it to the compost.

Like a quilt, mark the date on your rice bag.  It will give you a chuckle down the road.
B1C56F2D-E179-4E45-A099-47129CC7DAA8                                                            ***Warm wishes 2002***
Below is a collection of our vintage bags.
Some are 4 x 6 grids the pepper bag, reverse side of above is a 5×5 grid made from fat quarters.  I used 1/4 cup of rice in each chamber with a 24-25 chamber bag, about 6 cups of rice.  With the 15 chamber bags (4 x 4 grid) we used 1/3 cup rice in each chamber (5.33 cups total)  One cup of the rice we used weighed 8 ounces.  So with a little math you can plan your rice needs.  These weigh 2-3 pounds.

B198E6B9-0207-4D98-A2FA-E157D9E0D6D1This post may contain affiliate links which means I may receive a small commission from the seller if you purchase an item with them.  Thank you.

Warm Wishes to you in 2020, and happy sewing!  Joan

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Blanket sleeper tweaks Jalie 3244

This brings back so many fond memories of my babies in blanket sleepers. Cool nights and blanket sleepers go together like tea and crumpets!7747B0A7-824A-4DDB-A51C-1972DF68C463My oldest mentioned she was having a hard time finding the footed version for her baby.  Baby is not yet crawling. Once she is standing there will be appliqués of gripper fabric on the soles of these.

Grandma to the rescue!

I started with Jalie 3244.  Love the extended sizing in this pattern line.  Maybe next year the adults will all get one!

I made a first version in red that was perfect for holiday wear.  Took photos as I put this together yesterday morning.

In order to extend the zipper to the ankle, I extended the back inside leg from crotch to hem by one inch, and took one inch off the width of the front inside leg also from crotch to hem.  This is for a 12 month size.  A larger size may need a proportionally larger adjustment.

I serged the center back seam, and top stitched that.  Then serged the inside leg of one front to one back, and top stitched that. The top stitching makes the seam lay flat against the inside of the garment and not bug baby.

Three parts sewn together look like this:

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Next, I clipped/pinned a 22 inch long zipper right sides together to the single remaining leg/body piece. A longer zip will be needed for larger sizes.
2859EEA6-F91F-4124-81DF-507A5A7A6FFA Using my quilting foot, since my zipper foot was no where in sight, stitched the zipper along the long side of the center front/leg. Flipped the zip over and top stitched.

Next, I matched up the notches of the front piece with the zip to the three pieces sewn previously.  Right sides together stitched the zip to that assembly. Thank goodness for the notches.  They are key to making this look good!

CD34296F-D8CE-4311-A949-CE72305D082FThe front section where three seams intersect are a lovely match up to the “notch” on the single front side where i decreased that inch.

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Top stitched this side of the zipper.

Attached and top stitched the sleeves. Remember we want baby to be so comfortable, sleep comes easy.
CE69D473-A316-4E42-AC86-9CCB3AF1F1ECI made the little feet separately, since the side seams would not line up.686EE9E1-D6A4-43D3-A696-5F8B9C040355It was simple to slip them inside the PJ legs, match up notches and sew them on.

7147FF7D-DBFE-4BA6-B263-8BD1534084C2I found this cotton lycra polka dot for cuffs and neckband, and zipper cover tab.  It was a scrap from another project and just enough.  In more than one pattern review I read that cuffs were snug.  I cut these a bit bigger.

I stitched one edge of the collar to the pj neckline with a narrow zig zag (.5 wide 2 long).  Right sides together.  Although next time, I might sew the band to the back side and wrap around to the front.

To make a nice front edge, this is how I interpreted the instructions.  Wrap the front edge of the neck band around itself, sandwiching the zipper top and sew to the notch.  Have I mentioned how much I love notches yet?  Do the same for the other side. Perhaps trim if your fabric is bulky.

I would have hand tacked this band down if there was more time.  Instead I pinned and topstitched.

Also added a tab to cover the zipper pull. Hand stitched a hook and eye to the tab and reinforced section of Pj in the car on the way.  Thank goodness for gift bags!

7747B0A7-824A-4DDB-A51C-1972DF68C463This post may contain affiliate links, which could pay me a small commission at no additional cost to you if you choose to use them.

Happy winter sewing – Joan

Reusable produce bags

EEA87258-75BF-47CC-A310-2E1E395663C7Decades ago, I made fabric gift bags for my children’s birthday party favors.  We still use the versions I made in rip stop nylon for vacation packing and pool visits today.   There is a collection of bags we pull out at holiday time to wrap gifts in.  I enjoy sewing a few every year to add to the collection or give away.

This batch of bags is made from a thrifted cotton sheer curtain.  Nylon would also work nicely, perhaps a cooler iron setting would prevent mishaps?  I washed the curtain and cut it into rectangles roughly 13 inches by 36 inches.

I pressed the short edges after folding them over about a half inch.  Spray Starch is super helpful here.

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Then I folded the short edges over another inch and pressed again.

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To create the casing for the ties, I opened up the second fold, imagined a 2 inch square box on each of the corners.  I folded each corner down diagonally across this box.

 

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Pressed again, then refolded that one inch back down across the short end. 1F8D3328-ACFF-4283-94BF-211FE2A1ACC1

It was simple to sew across this edge to form the casing.  I made sure to back tack the beginning of each seam and the end  of the casing.

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with the sheer fabric it is hard to see the layers.  Here is another photo. Seam ripper shows casing opening.
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With the wrong sides together, I stitched each side seam with a 1/2 inch seam allowance.  Trimmed this down to 1/4 inch.
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Turned the bag wrong side out and stitched a 3/8 inch seam on both side seams.

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When opened up that seam looks like this (without drawstrings).

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The two draw strings pictured are nylon cording cut about 5” longer than the full Circumference of the bag.  This gives room for tying knots at the end.  If your cords fray, you can carefully melt the ends over a candle before running through the casings.  This time I used a bodkin, but a safety pin, hair pin or crochet hook have all been handy.  The two drawstring method makes it fun to pull on each end to cinch up the bag!
I thread both through at once, tie off ends and pull one cord to have one knot at each opening.
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Ambrosia Apron

A92B993F-F972-4877-98F2-C099E280D0B8My earliest memories of Ambrosia were from Thanksgiving, when it was the most delightful part of the meal.  According to Wikipedia:

Ambrosia is an American variety of fruit salad. Most ambrosia recipes contain: canned or fresh pineapple, canned mandarin orange slices or fresh orange sections, miniature marshmallows, and coconut

We have always made ours with pineapple, bananas, oranges, and coconut.  Maraschino cherries were added when our middle child became aware of them.

Intrigued by the pattern name, and impressed by the affordability, and two sizes (most apron patterns I have seen are only one size) I was totally convinced by the princess seams.  Princess seams are rather magical in the lines they can create.  Oh, did I mention it has pockets.  And it does not hang on the back of my neck.  As far as aprons go, this one ticks all the boxes.  I had been meaning to make one since it was released.

This apron will make an amazing gift, and is a super use of scraps of fabric for the eight or so different pieces.  Once you have your pattern traced, and pieces cut, the sewing part is quick!  It is fun to experiment with the color blocking aspect of this apron!  Please read the designer’s instructions before making your Ambrosia.  This is how I made mine.

Important tips.  Mark the tops of your pockets and be sure to cut the notches of the pattern outwards (inwards notches will weaken a seam).

Ambrosia #1 included some Frida Kahlo fabric, which makes me happy.  Thank you Alexander Henry, and some Tula Pink purple skulls which are non directional since they tessellate, and a hot pink blender that was on sale.  I had planned to make a shop sample, but fell hard for this one.

Ambrosia #2, was intended to be the apron made in the demo I had scheduled.  I had my eye on the bees fabric forever, and could not figure what to make with it.  I opted to include it in my Ambrosia, and to mix it with a batik, that was involved in a Style Arc Lacey dress I planned to wear when weather cooled enough for sleeves.

Ambrosia #3 was totally unplanned, until I ran across this fabric from Studio E that was the perfect match to the molecule fabric.  My son and his girlfriend had spent a bit of time trying to solve the math equations on a print on a dress I made for my first grand child.  I can totally identify with Ms. Frizzle from the Magic School Bus, and wearing something super fun and geeky.  I think she can too, and it would be nice to make an Ambrosia in the smaller size.  So a yard of each went home with me.  I took photos of the construction of this one, and will share them with you.

 

 

 

 

The Ambrosia is constructed back to front.  Yes, I had to read the directions.  First I serged the back to the side pieces, and then top stitched that with my Bernina.  Top stitching reinforces the serging and helps to make everything lay flat.

 

 

 

Next, I sewed the tops of the pockets together, those markings and notches you made earlier will really help with this, as the deeper part of the pocket is in the back of the apron.  Pull the shorter pocket (lining) up and under stitch that seam.  Under stitching helps to roll the lining/facing towards the back so that it does not show on the front side.  It stitches the layers as follows.  Lining on top, and seam allowances on the bottom.

734ECABD-36C8-4131-B796-381607AA1F03Those can be pressed before under stitching and pressed before top stitching for a really professional look.  Both top stitched pockets below.

7BF19962-A996-4EC0-9060-12F193D520BBNext stitch the bottom of the pocket to the bottom of the side/back piece.  This can be french seamed, sewn and zig zagged, or sewn and serged.  Just a single row of serging will need reinforcement here if you plan to put heavy stuff in your pockets.  You may notice that I serged across the bottom hem of the outer pocket already.  Wasn’t sure which would need white and which would need red serging, so I serged as I went. EAC63FA6-09F7-4E5D-9629-8DA716F18391Pin the sides of the pockets so that they are flat with the side/back piece, and stay stitch on the edge of either side of the pocket, so that the layers behave on the next step.

E2835A30-AAC6-4CE2-AC27-57C9E6629E66Next comes the tricky part.  the curved princess lines of the assemblage above is attached to the center front.  You can baste this first on a sewing machine, but I just went for it, and matched up my seams at the hem and serged away  (left photo).  When I got to the part where the con curve meets the convex pieces, I had to stop (center photo).  I had more red fabric than molecules, so I turned my fabric over, and started from the top and serged till I met my previous stitching (right photo).  The feed dogs did the easing of the longer piece into the slightly shorter piece.

 

Then I top stitched.  Because the pocket makes a lot of layers, I top stitched towards the center panel, so that those layers could lay a bit flatter. 31E10A7E-F039-4ED2-8EC1-A66EE534B71C

Straps. Learn from my initial mistake.  The pattern piece is on the fold, and the smaller size has a narrower strap.  I cut this strap the width of fabric, serged the edge with the selvage folded back on itself, turned then top stitched.  On the small apron, I cheated a bit, and cut four inches off the end of each strap to use as my loop.   I used a foot with a guide to create tidy top stitching on my apron straps.

 

 

 

Either a separate piece or just a bit of the strap. It is time to attach the loop to the side of the apron.  I put the selvage edge up, and raw edge down, so it it is less noticeable.  Stitched it back and forth just inside the serging. 1989075B-D38F-4091-8C52-3460F9EC5015

Well, darn, I did not get a lot of photos of the facing assembly.  What I did, was  first to clean finish the bottom edge of the facing.  Then aligned the facing to the apron top right sides together.  I  serged the outer edges of each side of the facing from the top of the shoulder to the armpit, where the facing fades away, and kept serging till I got to the end of that underarm curve.  Then I made sure all of my raw outer edges were serged.

I under stitched the facing to the seam allowance on this outer edge.  Then I took the raw edge of my strap and sandwiched it in between the right sides of the shoulders and sewed as per pattern instructions.  Take care to shorten your stitch length just before and after the v.  Then clip to a few threads of your seam line.  A2C4E89A-4D9B-4AD4-B063-80CE720DBADCHopefully, you can pull on your straps and the apron will turn right side out.  If you got a little edge of  strap caught up in your seam, like I did, just pull out those few stitches, press, and top stitch close to the edge and no one will be the wiser.

 

Press all of the raw (serged) edges towards the inside of the apron, and top stitch.  One last press, and you are ready to channel your inner Nigela Lawson, and make (or eat) pie.  Or maybe some Ambrosia.254EE412-D5F8-414F-8EAE-19AB7B05A42C

 

This post contains affiliate links.  It costs you no more to use them, and I may receive a small commission if you do.  Thank you.  Happy Sewing!  Joan

 

Perfecting the V neck

3D2AB8D0-2EFC-405F-88A9-F3192FDA530FJust yesterday was my youngest’s birthday.  On the phone he lamented that his last good solid tee had seen better days, and that he would be glad of a replacement or two for his birthday, but Christmas would be good too.  He is a patient man.  He also specified that he likes the shirts with the 3/4 sleeves that are a different color.  I remember picking some of these up for him 10 years ago, and they were his favorites forever.

A good raglan shirt is also my favorite to make.  However, I am becoming more of a perfectionist in getting that v neck just so.  Do you cross the neckband over, or sew the band together in a v shape then attach it?

It occurred to me that the issue I have when attaching the band to a v neck is that what I see when sewing is the underside of the band, not the band that actually is attached to the shirt front.  Any slippage there, and the v does not match up with the seam on the band.  Wearable, but disappointingly not perfect.

Light-bulb moment!  Instead of basting that inch-either-side-of-the-v with both layers of the band, why not baste A SINGLE LAYER of the band to the front side of the shirt?    That way, the needle can pivot exactly at the seam line of the band, instead of a stitch or two off center.

 

 

The above two photos are just after sewing the first inch of the basting, and the needle is sunk into the center of the seam line of the band.  Next, the presser foot is lifted, and the fabric adjusted so that the second part of the neck band is aligned with the second part of the shirt front, so it looks like the photo below.

090A2196-9B74-4F4D-8D20-CA5F732D3ECAHere we are with both sides of center front sewn.  I used a shorter stitch length (2 on my Bernina).  Next step is to flip this assemblage over, and snip into that v on the front of the shirt, just a few threads from your stitching line.  After that,  fold that band in half so that the center front seams line up.  Match up center back of band and shirt, match up quarter marks, and serge around as normal.  This is where the underside of the band is caught in the seam!

4C293E94-41C8-4BDC-8084-9365D30CAB3CIn this photo, you can see that my snip was not exactly center, but it works to spread out the front, I serge from point, around back to point.  I might go back and even out the machine stitching line with the serging line so it looks even on the front.

 

0DAE3797-93C5-4F4D-8CC4-668913EA3116Just a press and a top stitch away from being finished.  I love that I can have control over the front side.

The back side looks like my old way of sewing the front side. Close, but a little off.  You can see how the feed dogs pulled the fabric just enough to make it a little off center.  My patient son will not notice or care about this.  He will be happy for a v neck raglan that he can wear out!   Seeing him for birthday brunch shortly, and more fabric ordered for Christmas!

2F56CE3D-C0D4-42A0-81C9-BC5C8EA22DDCJust a note about the pattern.  There are a ton of great raglan patterns out in the PDF world of sewing.  This one is the Ryan Raglan from 5oo4 patterns.  There is a women’s version, Nancy, and a kids version, Rocket.

If you happen to live in the 505 or 575 area code, you might be close enough for a class.  I am happy to teach in person lessons in the Albuquerque area.  Look for me if you are in town!

And yes, those are affiliate links.  I appreciate you using them, at no cost to you, I receive a small commission.  Thank you for looking!  Happy sewing too!   Joan